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June 14th, 2001, 11:02 AM
#1
Inactive Member
Hi,
I recently bought a canon 512xl electronic.
Since I didn't include a manual I searched the internet for a manual online. I found one but it wasn't very thorough.
That's why I still have some questions.
Manual Exposure:
I know that the dial on the left of the off/R/RL/1 dail is the exposure dial.
If it isn't pulled out it's in automatic exposure mode. Also when I look through the viewfinder and pull the trigger without rolling the film I get a nice lightreading.
When I pull the dail and switch to manual mode and I pull the trigger the lightmeter say that there is not enough exposure. Turning the dail in either direction has no effect on the lightreading/aperture.
Am I doing something wrong or is my iris broken in manual exposure mode or even in automatic mode too ?
Looking forward for your help,
Dimitri
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June 14th, 2001, 02:52 PM
#2
Inactive Member
Here is what the letters stand for:
R = run, RL = run lock, 1 = single frame.
I don't think you have a "manual exposure" option on this camera. Canon cameras have printed "manual" on the camera for that option. Or in the case of the 514XL-s, EE lock. This stands for electric eye lock. Unless your camera has some other switchs, you'll have to shoot on auto. The good side to this is, Canons have some of the best light meters built into their cameras.
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June 14th, 2001, 02:57 PM
#3
Inactive Member
Ok, I just noticed you have an "electronic". When you pull the "manual" knob, look through the viewfinder, then, turn the knob. You should see the meter needle move. hope this helps.
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June 15th, 2001, 11:07 PM
#4
Inactive Member
I can pull out the exposure dial but then the lightmeter goes to underexposure and no amount of turning has any effect on the iris.
Probably is the automatic exposure working only.
That leads to a different question. How can I set or correct the exposure for different filmspeeds (ASA) in automatic mode?
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June 16th, 2001, 07:28 PM
#5
Inactive Member
Your camera will set the ASA. The film carts are notched. That is, Kodak film is. Not sure what Pro8 stocks are notched.
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June 16th, 2001, 10:56 PM
#6
Inactive Member
Thank you for your help, rollemfilm!
One more question, does the manual exposure dail work if there is no cartridge inserted?
Because I haven't inserted a cartridge yet and perhaps this explain the "broken" manual exposure.
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June 16th, 2001, 11:07 PM
#7
Inactive Member
it should work without a cart in, but, you do have to have batteries in and the camera should be turned on. the "E" cameras have a servo design for this feature. but try it with a cart in too, you never know.
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June 19th, 2001, 01:19 PM
#8
Inactive Member
Yes, you must have batteries in and while you're at it a film cartridge in wouldn't harm, though I don't believe it was strictly necessary for manual metering.
If as you say twiddling the knob back and forth produces no meter galvanometer needle movement then there's undoubtedly a fault with the camera. Repair of this should not be difficult.
tom.
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June 20th, 2001, 05:14 PM
#9
Inactive Member
Tom, you say fixing should not be to difficult. Have you got any experience with fixing a canon 512 ?
For one, which screws do I need to turn to open this camera ?
Any help would be helpful
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June 21st, 2001, 08:40 AM
#10
Inactive Member
I've opened a lot of cameras. Haven't been able to fix them all but as I always say, "girls put them together so boys can take them apart".
Take a brave pill and clear the bench. Get some good strong lighting. Get a notepad and pen and a set of those fine watchmakers screwdrivers. Draw sketches as you go, keep the little screws in labeled empty 35mm film canisters and you'll not go wrong.
Even take digital pictures if you like - anything to help you remember the sequence of the washers and springs that you'll meet in the teardown.
At any point tell yourself you can backtrack and nothing will be lost. Nothing will be gained either, so it's worth carrying on, gently removing the panels so that you can see what's behind, what's causing the problem.
Be gentle. If a panel won't come off easily there's probably a hidden fixing you've missed. Those early to mid 70s cameras were very mechanical (as against electronic). As such they were less reliable but at the same time they were more repairable.
Good luck to you.
tom.
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